Field of Dreams

For the past couple months I’ve been dealing with another running injury, this time my other leg. NOT COOL LEGS, NOT COOL. I’ve thought about sawing them off. I might have a good shot at the special olympics that way. But I’m pretty sure they don’t take self-amputees, so I guess that’s not really a good idea. I’ve been dealing with running injuries since…March basically. First my left leg, now my right. Ugh. Frustration doesn’t even begin to describe how I’m feeling. All I want to do is run. Run across the country and grow a long beard. Oh wait, that was Forest.

When you’re not dealing with injury, running is one of the greatest things. You don’t need any real equipment, you just lace up, and go. Anywhere. It’s freedom at its purest. Running outside in Ukraine always felt so freeing — well, when I wasn’t worrying about the 2,348 million things that came with running there. But those moments running solo in the fields, watching the sun set over my village, or seeing a flock of crows take-off from the newly plowed land – those moments were breathtaking.

My Ukrainian village isn’t the only place to feel that way though. My hometown in Illinois is dotted with forest preserves and prairie paths that take me back to Ukraine (I mean not literally, I couldn’t run that far, but mentally). I guess if I run far enough out of Iowa City I’d surely end up in some cornfields…but some things just aren’t the same.

Throughout two years of my Peace Corps service I dreamt of having the luxurious option of going to the gym. Especially on those days when the windchill crept at a low -20*F and I had to go on a training run, or when I grew tired of my MTV yoga videos, Tony Horton’s voice, or lifting Ukrainian children as dumbbells…I dreamt of the gym and all its glory.

In Ukraine, I ran throughout the winter with very limited running accessories, ran the same routes a billion times. I severely rolled my eyes when anyone in my distant homeland complained about having to go to the gym. I thought, “COOOOOME ONNNN you guys, I would trade 100 goats for that option!”. But…that was then.

Now I’m at a big 10 university where most of my tuition dollars are funneled into a state-of-the-art gym that looks more like the inside of a Carnival cruise ship and has a (rather ironic) lazy river running through it. Yea. I’d never been to a gym like that since my family is a family of YMCA people — the kind of gym where you’re lucky if they have A/C, the machines might be built in a Flintstone fashion, and the average age is 78.

Basically, the first time in my new gym caused a near melt-down. I went to the gym looking for a simple bike machine to ease my running pain and found only touch screens and gaming programs. I tried about 4 different machines, feeling overwhelmed by the options, the choices, the buttons that aren’t actually buttons because it’s a screen. An elderly woman watched, judging from behind me (probably not, but it felt like it). She clearly had no problem operating these machines, but I felt SO DUMB, so out of place, so behind. I’m a young person, and young people are supposed to know these things, right?

I gave up on the bike and wandered to the treadmills, since those are something I can usually figure out. Even then the machine was way more complicated than necessary, and my attempt to run brought tears of pain. Great. Crying at the gym. Those people muse have thought I was a loony for sure. It wasn’t the best gym day. I left thinking of how much I wish I could run and how overly state-of-the-art the gym has become.

Basically, I’m back to first world problems — the hot tub’s too hot, too many options for dining out, the gym is too techie, etc.  I finally have a gym, and I’m complaining about it, ha. That’s really what it comes down to. I have that option yet all the terrifying techno mumbo jumbo machines make me dream of running in the fields of my Ukrainian village (though, maybe without the packs of wild unfriendly dogs).

I’ve been missing my village. Of course not every aspect of it, I’m quite alright with not having to take bucket baths again, hearing pigs being slaughtered or cat sex at night. Nope, don’t miss those things. But I do miss the simplicity. I miss walking through the fields and hearing only the wind.

Grad school has been keeping me busy, busier than I’ve been in a long long while so my nights aren’t spent writing anymore, which I really do miss. Instead I’m waist-deep hand binding books, setting and printing metal type, and practicing blackletter (gothic) calligraphy — but I love it, so that works. I guess my socially atypical rejection of technology fits rather nicely with the work I’m pursuing. All I need is a time machine set to 1450 (oh and I’d need to be a man cause I would never go back in time as a woman).

Annnnnyways, time has been passing quickly and most days I feel so distanced from Ukraine. Maybe it’s just the fact that I’m still readjusting, or that I’m busy with school, but in so many ways I’ll stop and wonder about my Peace Corps service and think “Huh, that really did happen.” I’m not really sure how to describe the feeling. I feel a bit like Kevin Costner finding sanctuary in the open field but not knowing exactly why. Well, except I don’t hear voices telling me to build a baseball field. But most of the time, Ukraine feels like some sort of weird and distant dream — one that involved zero baseball but a lot of mayonnaise, marshutkas, and mesh.

It’s technically only been 5 months since I left Ukraine, but I haven’t heard anything from the Ukrainians I invested time to make connections with. It makes me wonder if I didn’t try hard enough, if they even remember me, if they’ve forgotten. I miss seeing my students, their hilarious personalities, and watching them grow. I miss writing about the ridiculous things that would happen in my week. At the moment I feel so disconnected from it all. I’m standing in the field waiting to hear the voices, waiting for them to remind me, for it to come back and ground me.

But it all grows hazy in the distance.

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Video: Wrapping things up at site

I’m finally getting around to uploading and editing some videos from my last few weeks in Ukraine. I took quite a few so there’s more to come! I made this video during my last few weeks at my Peace Corps site in Ukraine. It’s yet another tour of my house (never enough of those, right??) paired with some emotions/thoughts I had at the time. Forgive my broken/un-practiced English…and for any motion sickness that might occur. Also, I’m pretty sure I’m cooking beans in every video I’ve made…I love me some beans!

Enjoy!

home is where the heart is

just when you thought it was over, borscht and babushkas is back! to your (hopefully) delight or (possibly) dismay, my blogging has not come to an end. i think this is the longest blogging break i’ve taken because, quite frankly, america has been keeping me busy — between family & friends, to the distractingly enjoyable illinois summer, to semi-unnecessary trips to target, and even to making sure i get enough microbrew beer and giant cups of coffee to drink.

not to mention that on top of that i’ve been struggling with a wee bit of writer’s block and deciding which direction i’ll take my blog. my brain is still trying to adjust back to life in the land of the free and home of the brave. you know, just attempting to comprehend everything and fit in again, no big deal. i didn’t really anticipate that i would take so long to get back into blogging. but it was comforting to discover, while watching a jane austen documentary on the plane ride over, that  jane too had writer’s block when her family moved from the quiet country side to the big city. i know, i know, i’m no jane, but there is certainly some truth in losing one’s creative space, daily rhythm, and little village hobbit house sanctuary of writing.

readjusting to life in america has been overwhelming at times. the amount of cars, comfort & luxury, packaged foods, smart phones, electronic everything have just been a few of the things that freak me out. i’ve still yet to load a single thing into the dishwasher and tend to forget about the existence of microwaves and sidewalks.  i have admittedly readjusted rather quickly to having a shower (a hot one at that!) and laundry done not by hand — lest i forget how wonderful these are.

honestly, i never anticipated missing village life so much or finally coming home and thinking of it so often. even though prior to ukraine i’d read about every book on going off the grid, canning, eating locally, and everything amish, so i was a little weird to begin with. even so, i figured, i’d come home, to this place i’d longed for so deeply, everything would feel just right and that would be that — but it hasn’t been so. some things have remained the same but for the most part everything is different — from my closest friends moving away, to babies growing-up, and of course to the way i look at things.

a week or so before i was to leave my village i procrastinated packing with the longest movie i could think of — lord of the rings. i decided to only semi-procrastinate and watch my favorite of the trilogy, “the return of the king”. at the end of the movie, upon a much awaited return home to the shire, frodo says “how do you pick up the threads of an old life? how do you go on, when in your heart, you begin to understand, there is no going back?”. with only one week left in my hobbit house (fitting name, huh? i guess i really love LOTR), knowing a huge transition was about to take place i of course couldn’t help but tear up at this scene and think “frodo, you got it so right…*sniff* so right”.

i knew that soon my dear peace corps friends would disperse and i’d say good-bye to my gracious ukrainian hosts, to a way of life i came to love, and try to pick up the threads of my old life. it’s not that i wasn’t looking forward to going home, but i knew like frodo, though with significantly better looking feet, that there’s no going back, everything is about to change.

it has been only recently that all of this has started to sink-in. i have moments while cooking that i gather the food scraps and think i’ll just take them out to feed the chickens and turkeys. or i’ll sit under the shade of our backyard trees and think of the steady hum of village life and my walks down the quiet dirt roads. but then i realize, “it’s really over. i’ve finished peace corps and a huge formulating chapter of my life has come to an end. i’m really not going back”.

i can see how all of this might make me seem unhappy to be back or might make you wonder “well, if you love ukraine so much why don’t you just marry it stay there??”.  i am happy to be home. never before have been so proud to have served my country and to have represented america. i can’t help but get emotional with the playing of the national anthem for it always brings back memories of moments i sang it during my service. heck, i cried during my hometown’s 4th of july fireworks because i was so happy to be home. my country is dear to me, do not mistake that. but returning is still somewhat bittersweet, ukraine is still fresh in my memory and i have a lot of readjusting to do. with leaving any place, culture, or lifestyle behind, one will miss certain things.

isolating during service was certainly nothing new to me or any volunteer, for the majority of those 27 months it was a daily struggle. even at our close of service conference we were prepped with a warning of continued isolation even upon return home. i think most of us wondered, “well, we’re from there so how could we be so different”. but it really is different. we’re different.

what might have been partially due to jet lag, the first week or so back in america i felt i felt lost in a blur of unfocused faces, i felt so out of place. i would linger in the lines of ezra pound’s poem understanding exactly what he felt in the frugality of his words:

In a Station of the Metro
The apparition of these faces in the crowd;
petals on a wet, black bough.

a fellow returned peace corps volunteer initially thought everything seemed of plastic and things that were once natural, now seem oddly unreal. it’s such a strange feeling to no longer be completely at home with a place that should be home. i guess i’ve always been a little out-of-place in america with my amish dreams. but now that i’ve had the chance to take my little house on the prairie lifestyle for a test drive, i know that it’s what i love and how i feel most at home.

as they say “home is where the heart is”, but sometimes home is no longer just one place — it is neither truly here nor there — but a way of living, finding shared goals, and common mindsets. so maybe this is where i’ll continue to share my bit of “home” — my recipes, photos, stories from ukraine, grad school book arts adventures, and pioneering dreams.

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an american flag for everyday i’ve been gone. just kidding, we’d need way more flags.

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from my welcome home party — i shocked even my own mother with picking/pitting 15 pounds of cherries and making 4 double crusted cherry pies from scratch. all in a pioneer’s day of work.

taiwan & thailand in 5 x 5s

in a few days my month of after-service wandering/sweating/eating/photographing my way through southeast asia will come to an end and I’ll set out on one last flight — this time headed for home to put the “R” in my RPCV status (returned peace corps volunteer).

I will certainly miss southeast asia — what am i going to do without all this amazing cheap ‘n delicious street food or coconut flavored everything??! but i dare say it’s high time I go home, stop living out of my backpack, have some chicago deep dish, and finally be with family and friends.

I’ll be seeing you on Monday, America.

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good-bye village life // leaving site

it only seems fitting that my 200th blog post is the day i leave my village. i swear i didn’t actually plan that, just an epic coincidence. it’s the last day in my village and in a few hours i’ll have to say good-bye. i’m not sure it’s all really hit me yet, the fact that i’m actually leaving…maybe it will once my house is empty and i turn in the key? when we drive away? when my friends send me off on my one-way ticket train? i guess i’ll find out…

before i came to ukraine i remember youtubing videos uploaded by peace corps volunteers and wondered what it all would be like. there was one video from a volunteer (from somewhere in south america i think) recording the final drive away from his site. it was only a minute or so long, there wasn’t even any audio besides the sound of wind rushing and only scenes of green blurring past. i’m not sure why it stuck with me so, i guess because i wondered how that guy felt, what he must have been thinking as he left his home for the past two years. i mean, i was emotional when i moved out and drove away of my last college apartment! it will be difficult to say good-bye.

i got a lot of work done yesterday, more cleaning and packing. i fed some food scraps to the chickens once more, had to strategically corral some wandering turkeys back into their pen, took my last bucket bath (WAHOOO!!), and did about 5 loads of laundry by hand. when i described my day to my mom she said “sounds like little house on the prairie!”. and it is. well…minus me blogging later that day, but i’m just a modernized laura ingalls wilder.

i will really miss village life in some ways — the quiet, the simplicity. at this time in my life, i’m definitely ready to be around people my age and be able to leave the house at night to go somewhere or do something, but maybe someday i can implement certain parts of my village back into my life. i don’t think this would include bucket bathing, but certainly growing some of my own food, canning and preserving, and disconnecting from the world time-to-time.

admittedly, i’m slightly afraid to go back to america and its fast pace of life. i’m sure in no time i’ll be longing for simpler not-everyone-is-on-their-smartphone times of my village i’ve come to love. but not everyone in america is like that, so i don’t have to be either. i’ll just have to find the people that aren’t and make friends with them…maybe some neighborhood babushkas or maybe i should just become amish. ; )

a few months ago i started a running list of things i will miss about ukraine and village life. of course there are things i won’t miss, but i didn’t need to write those down. they were just little things that i worried i’d forget about. i don’t know that i’ll share the list yet, maybe once i get back and figure out what i actually miss. but i did want to write a poem, an ode to village life and to my hobbit house– to a place that has really started to feel like home. a place that i’ll be saying good-bye to today.


good-bye village life
(inspired from margret wise brown’s goodnight moon)

in a village of ukraine
there was a hobbit house
and a dog on a chain
and a picture of
a lady gazing in vain

there were millions of stars and roads with few cars 
and a flock of hens and pigs in their pens
and a little wooden doors and oddly carpeted floors

and backyard beets and homegrown meats
and babushkas that cried “eat!”

good-bye house good-bye house
good-bye picture of a lady with her big titties out

good-bye backyard beets and homegrown meats
good-bye flock of hens and pigs in their pens

good-bye millions of stars and good-bye roads with few cars

good-bye wooden doors and good-bye oddly carpeted floors

good-bye scent of swine and good-bye domashnee wine

good-bye bucket bathing and good-bye cats of the night a wailing

good-bye to the dog on a chain

and good-bye to the babushkas that cried “eat!”

good-bye quiet, good-bye lovcavore diet

good-bye greenhouse and good-bye occasional mouse

good-bye to village life and my homey hobbit house

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interesting art choices

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laundry and shower bucket // washing sheets is the worst

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one of these doors is not like the other // hobbit sized door

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flocks of hens

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pigs in a pen

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and a dog on a chain

the final countdown // last day of teaching in ukraine

i usually like to have my thoughts and emotions pretty well sorted out before i write a blog post, but this time, since i’m not exactly sure when my thoughts will be sorted out and i also sort of hope this will help, i’mmmmm just going to go for it.

wednesday marked my last day of school. ever. well, not ever because i’m going to graduate school in the fall (woo!), but ever for me teaching in ukraine. my 2 years of service as a TEFL teacher is really coming to an end. people have asked me “soooooo, how does it feel?” and i usually give them a mixture of emotions. believe me — there were many a days when i could. not. wait. to be done teaching, i think every teacher feels that way at some point, but i knew saying good-bye to my students would be difficult, i love those kids! the smiles on their faces, hugs in the hallway, and over-eager “hellow!”s were really what reminded me to keep going.

teaching in ukraine was…challengling (to put it lightly). when i look back on just how much i was able to deal with (i have some real classroom horror stories) and how much i was able to adapt, i can’t help but feel proud. i did it! though, i didn’t always know that i could.

last summer, not long after my site transfer to my current village i struggling to integrate all over again. i was having doubts that i wanted to continue, starting over wasn’t easy, and i just wasn’t sure it was worth it. i struggled with questions of “am i actually doing something here?” “is it really noble to just finish just to finish?” “when do i put myself and my happiness first?”. you know, easy questions. these questions floated around my head that summer and on my visit home to america in july i was legitimately close to not coming back.

i talked it through with my family and friends, they all worried about me and my happiness, but in the end i got on that plane, determined that leaving now would only be something i’d regret later. i was already on pretty shaky ground once i came back to ukraine so when my boyfriend in america broke-up with me,  i was a mess. i felt like my limits were reached and i knew i couldn’t manage everything living alone in ukraine — or so i thought. i contemplated for days if i went home and what i would do. i sat in my favorite park in kyiv thinking and pouring over any peace corps handbook i could about mid-service crisis and early termination (of service, not pregnancy).

i’m not even really sure what changed my mind exactly, i think some of the conversations i had with my mom in america popped-up in my head again — conversations on commitment and the pride i’ll have when i can say that i’ve completed all of my service. that summer she never once said for me to come home. at the time that was all i wanted her to say, but she didn’t, and i couldn’t be more thankful.

that summer was the most unpleasant, challenging, lowest moment of my service here. i wanted to give up almost everyday. with 9 more months left to go i had to actually write a note of encouragement on my fridge that said “going home is NOT an option! you’re almost there!”. so cheesy i know, but i looked at it everyday and pep-talked myself into believing that i could, taking things only one day at a time.

for the past few days i’ve been busy packing and getting ready to leave my village for good — strange to think. when it came time for me to clean off my fridge i couldn’t help but think of where i was in my life when i wrote that message. my heart aches for the version of myself back then. but i think i knew then that it would all be worth it in the end, even if i had to convince myself every day.

and here i am, i stayed. and on my last day of school the feelings of pride, accomplishment, and fulfillment were, albiet not a great as what i thought one would feel before i coming to ukraine, but still great none the less. to this day i occasionally wonder if what i did was actually important or if i did enough, but i know i’m not the only volunteer that feels this way.

i’m thankful to myself for staying. in deciding to finish my service i formed even closer invaluable friendships with other volunteers here, really grew to love my second site placement — my village, my host family, my school, my hobbit house, my new site mate. it is unfortunate that my whole service couldn’t have been here from the start, and i feel somewhat guilty for only living here for 14 months vs. 24 months, but i’ve learned so much about myself as a person going overcoming the challenges i faced in my service here. it’s been a long 26 months, it’s time to go home.

on my last day of school i donned my souvenir purchases (traditional ukrainian outfit of a vyshyvanka and floral head piece) to leave a good last impression. my school gave me a farewell speech at the linequa (announcement line-up), a few souvenirs, my fifth formers filled my arms with lilacs from home, and many a photo sessias were had.

the day didn’t really seem real, even though i was dressed so un-american-like. i didn’t really get a chance to say good-bye to most of the teachers, one english teacher left without a farewell, and a lot of my students were absent. honestly, more fan fair was made when my parents came to visit, there was no good-bye concert or teacher-made varenyky, but that’s okay, i probably would have been balling my eyes out if the kids started singing to me anyways. i was thankful i brought tea and baked my mom’s poppy seed bread and peanut butter cookies to share with the foreign language teachers after school, it gave us a chance to sit and talk one last time. it was a rather quiet celebration, a somewhat nonchalant good-bye, which i guess was probably for the best.

i don’t think it has sunk-in that i’m really done teaching, that this would be the last time i’d see these kids and step into the classroom. it’s a weird feeling — while my official close of service date is the 16th, i’m basically done. the service i’d dreamed about for years has basically come to an end. it gives me a lot to think about, a lot to process, a lot of emotions to sort out…not to mention a lot of stuff get rid of before moving-out!

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my sweet 5th formers

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with the school director (left of me) and foreign language teachers

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treats n tea

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photo sessia

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good-bye school!


may eleventh

i have two bottles of my favorite ukrainian christmas beer i’ve been saving since the holidays…that’s one beer for each night i have left living in my village — it’s time to savor everything (beer included). it’s hard to believe that things are coming to an end and before i know it i’ll be moved out of my hobbit house. i’ve been kind of overwhelmed with packing even though i’m basically giving all my stuff away. since i’m done with school, the only thing i have to do is pack and fill out some final peace corps papers which gets pretty boring. so i figured i’d procrastinate a little and enjoy my last few days in the village.

since early april i’ve been saying good-bye to fellow volunteers, host family, co-workers, shop owners, school, students, etc…it’s been like ripping a band-aid off ever so slowly. it’s been awful. not that the good-byes are awful, but no one wants to them to drag on and on and on. i’m looking forward to being done with this phase. but i did have one more good-bye to give to the post-office ladies. i didn’t want to leave without letting them know i’d gone home and not just disappeared. peace corps told us of a story in which villagers contacted peace corps asking where the american had gone because they didn’t say good-bye. ha!

so i took a break from semi-productivity and headed out with my camera to the post-office and then the city to print some photos for gifts. i was kind of bummin the past few days because i’ve basically finished everything and now i’m just doing nothing but waiting to leave. it was hard to say good-bye to my students and things felt kind of unfinished in a way — though are any good-byes ever really? but the break i took from packing turned out to be just what i needed.

as i walked to the post-office i went my normal route hoping to capture a few sneaky photos of decorative front yard gates i enjoy passing on a daily basis. my camera was out and ready to go when i heard my name and three of my favorite 5th formers came running towards me. “miss kristen!! miss kristen!!” they shouted with glee as the ran to me full force with open arms and enveloped me with hugs. i felt so loved! i was so glad i captured the moment of them running towards me, smiles on their faces. they linked arms with me and directed me to a bake sale table they’d set-up infront of their house. it was the cutest thing. i chatted a little with their mothers who were supervising and bought a few muffins from the girls. they were all smiles to have seen me one more time. i’ll miss those sweet kids so much, but i think seeing them one last time, leaving me with that memory of them running to greet me, was just what i needed, and just how i want to remember it.

i continued my walk to the post-office with such a smile, a little more closure and peace of mind. at the tiny post office i mailed my last letter home and said good-bye and thanks to the post ladies who were always so kind to me. i bought my favorite ice cream bar one last time (vanilla ice cream with poppy seeds and a white chocolate shell with sesame seeds, yum!) and waited for the bus to head into the city. when i sat down at the bus stop a man sitting there began to talk with me, or really, talk at me. he first thought i was german, but when i told him i was american he had much to say — about our educational system, drugs, crime, flowers, cars…he was a mr. chatty cathy. i think i said maybe a total of twenty words to him but when the bus came he gave me a handful of chocolates he pulled out from his bag and told me to eat them to my health.

once in the city i headed to the photo store for some prints. i’m now on a name-based terms with the (rather attractive) young man that works there. as i was telling him which prints i wanted he looked at me, pulled a mirror out from behind the counter and said, ‘you’ve…you’ve got something on your lips”…sure enough i had some left over ice cream hangin around. can’t take me anywhere!! i’m pretty sure i blushed majorly, but at least, unlike my bus stop friend, he was kind enough to tell me.

i had some time to kill while the rest of my photos were being printed so with my camera i headed to the bazaar. i’ve only taken a few photos of the bazaar but there were more shots i wanted to get. normally, i don’t have the balls to take them, but since i’m leaving, i don’t really care if they think i’m weird. i still had to explain myself most of the time — no, i dont’ work for the newspaper, no i’m not a spy, no i’m not a professional, this is just for my personal hobby. people here are very very suspicious of strange looking people taking photos, but i would be too. i’ve gotten some angry comments while taking photos, but i’ve found if you explain yourself and ask with a smile and a compliment, they’ll oblige. so now you can enjoy some bazaar photos — courtesy of me growing a pair.

since the day was just so nice out (it’s been cloudless and in the upper 70s-mid 80s since…since winter ended basically. it’s lovely.) i decided to walk back to my village from the city. it’s about 2.25 miles or so but i really didn’t have anything else to do (besides things i didn’t want to do). i walked slowly and took in the scenery. on the way i was offered ice cream by some young men. when i replied no thanks they rebutted with “but you’re lips are so red today!”…not sure how that makes an argument for eating ice cream but it make me laugh. oh, how everyone is in such a better mood when it’s not winter!

’twas lovely last saturday in ukraine.

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one (of the few) paved roads in the village. kids love to skateboard here.

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new graffiti in the village — i like it!

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5th formers running to greet me

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their bake sale table — too too cute

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such loving students, i’ll miss them!

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a house selling lettuce

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ukrainian flag near the village post office (the colors represent blue skies over wheat fields)

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bazaar in melitopol

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this man was friendly (and also thought i was kind of weird)

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wearing a cabbage hat to promote eco-friendly clothing

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green

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the meat house — these ladies were funny.

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a hopeful stray waiting outside the meat house

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labyrinth of clothes

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one of the village bus stops

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on the walk home

cinco de mayonnaise // orthodox easter

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with may comes my last month in ukraine and holidays — lots of them! i looked at my calendar and realized that 3 holidays in two weeks on-top of going away parties means that i’m basically partying every day (and possibly drunk packing) for the remainder of my time in ukraine. not a bad way to leave, i might say.

yesterday we celebrated cinco de paska, i mean, paska. this year paska, ukrainian orthodox easter, just happened to fall on cinco de mayo. while ukrainians don’t celebrate cinco de mayo (tragedy!), they celebrate paska in a similar fashion — drinking, dancing, and all around “good time having”. and with the number of mayonnaise based salads that graced every ukrainian family’s easter dinner table the holiday might as well have been called cinco de mayonnaise.

one might say that orthodox easter begins with the first signs of paska — small loafs of easter bread topped with a thin layer of white icing and colorful sprinkles. i was planning on trying my hand at baking some myself, but since the recipe calls for 15 eggs (and that’s no typo) to make 4 loafs and basically half a day in the kitchen, i decided not to. i’ll probably bake it next year in america but while i can simply buy some paska at any and every store, i’ll submit to laziness. plus i don’t even really like it (shhh, don’t tell!)

i didn’t go to church to get my easter basket of decorated eggs, wine, and paska, blessed this year. i went to an easter service my first year in ukraine with my host mother. the service lasted 5 hours…all standing. so needless to say, i went to church long enough for the rest of my service. this year’s easter was a bit more fun than standing in an incense-filled room till the sun came up.

lucky for me i live only 45 minutes or so away from the sea of azov where my landlords recently bought a beach home and planned to celebrate paska — beach bum style. come easter day, eight of us (myself and sarah included) piled into my landlord’s van and headed towards the water. when we pulled up to their new beach house i couldn’t help but think it was some magical seaside castle. there were eight rooms or and an outdoor kitchen (they’re in the process of fixing it up so they can rent out the rooms). soon after we arrived shashlyk (barbeque) was in the making along with a variety of mayo salads.

the only moment i remembered it was in fact a religious holiday happened right before lunch when we all had to eat a piece of paska and a hard boiled egg. but other than that and a few “christos voskress” (christ has risen), it honestly felt more like cinco de mayo on some spring break beach front…not that there were any wet t-shirt contests or highlighter parties, but the beach was littered with flirty young people with beers in-hand shashlyking. it was pretty entertaining to watch them as i dried off in the sun. while tamer than american spring breakers, they still had the same booze induced idea to wrestle each other near open fire or throw their ladies in the water. shockingly, it made me miss hanging out with people my age.

but ukrainians at any age are still pretty damn fun people. they’re down to party, kill vodka bottle after bottle, and stay up WAY past their bedtime dancing the night away. i love that about them, that they know how to have a good time. anywhere. anytime. there’s no “turn 40 and boring” here. i feel like it’s that way in america, like once you reach a certain age you just become “un-fun”.  not that “fun” has to mean drinking, but just to get un-hinged and live one night with more dirty jokes and less inhibitions (i guess most people would need booze for that). this kind of family partying is completely new to me. whenever i make comments about how fun their holidays gatherings are, and how different it is back home, sarah can’t really agree  since she’s irish. maybe it’s because i was raised protestant and protestants have a history of being pretty prude. i’ll just have to marry into an irish, greek, italian, mexican, ukrainian…basically anything but protestant, family. ; )

after beach bumming and some fishing, we all went back to the house to eat and drink some more. we finished the booze supply rather early on, and the beach front store actually sold out of vodka (unheard of!), but that didn’t stop us from having a good time. at some point during our paska celebration my ukrainian friends told me that i’m the first american they’ve hosted that understands the language well enough to get their humor, and actually make jokes right back at them. they told me “kristinaaaaa, you’re one of us! you’re an ukrainka!”. a language skills compliment AND a cultural understanding compliment in one?!  it was the best possible compliment i could have received.  it was as if ukraine was saying “okay, you’ve passed the test. you can go home now”.

as the night went on sarah (against her will) and i (not against my will) ended up singing the american national anthem on top of the balcony to an audience of lighter waving ukrainians below. as we stood there, a flashlight as our spotlight, disrupting the quiet of the night, i watched my ukrainian friends below swaying and cheering us on, and thought — i’m going to miss this. i’m going to miss them.

it was the last time all of my ukrainian friends and site mate would be together before i left. i’m not sure i’ll have an actual going away party with them but this was perfect enough, this is how i want to remember things — even if things are a little fuzzy from the homemade wine. they made me promise to keep in touch and when i find a boyfriend (that’s been their #1 most important mission all along), that i have to send them a photo or skype with said new boyfriend and they’ll either tell me “yes” or “no”. so now any future men in my life have to have the approval of both my families (american and ukrainian). ha.

they’ve asked many times when i’ll be able to come back and visit (“with your children!” they say hopefully)– but my answer is always the same — i want to, but we’ll see about money and time. i really hope i can visit again before long. my ukrainian hosts have become a second family to me. they are all such caring, kind, generous people that i’m thankful to have gotten to know — thankful that i’ll have people to miss and people to miss me.

now it’s off to my second to last day of school. i have a picnic planned for my english club kiddos, printed some photos from our parties for them, and have a box of things (stickers, toys, bookmarks) to hand-out. even though they’re goofy goober-heads in class, saying good-bye to my students isn’t going to be easy.

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the sea of azov

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“azov”

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dried fish for sale

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my landlord’s new beach house. so nice!

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paksa

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one of the many photos from my forced photo sessia

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a giant bag of mayonnaise.

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the singing begins

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sarah and igor dancing the night away

советские бабушки // soviet babushkas

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“time expands, then contracts, all in tune with the stirrings of the heart”                                                           haruki marakami // kafka on the shore

time is an interesting thing — there always seems to be too much of it or too little of it. there have been many a days when i’ve thought of just how long i have left in ukraine, a seemingly endless countdown, but now with only 10 days left in the country i’ve called home for the past two years everything i do is accompanied with a bittersweet prefix of “my last”.

i’ve been trying to update my blog for several days now but the internet hasn’t been working in my favor, so bear with me on the catching up i’m about to do. i tried making a video update but in the 4 times i tried to upload my video i’m pretty sure i caused a village-wide internet crash. sooo, no video for now. i’ll have to wait till i get to america, land of the wi-fi and not-so-frequent-internet-outages, to upload my queue of videos. normally if the internet has a working rate of 2 minutes every 9 hours, i’d slowly start to die inside, but with the weather this nice, i really don’t mind. it’s almost as though ukraine wants me to carpe diem the crap out of my last moments here.

when i’m not trying to figure out what the hell to do with all of my stuff (turns out the airline would charge an insane amount for a second checked bag so one suitcase it is!), i’m spending time with my site mate, landlords & neighbors, reading in the grass, and planning some parties. most recently i hosted an american going away party for myself and another volunteer from my group who’s also leaving in may. after some post-may 1st holiday celebrations and alcohol induced brainstorming, we decided the theme would be “babushka & diduce go to mars!” but somehow it turned into simply wearing floral patterns and wool soviet army hats. oddly enough, my landlords and neighbors really didn’t think it was weird for us to be wearing such outfits…but then again…i’m pretty sure i’ve weirded them out more with my winter running gear.

our melange of a theme themed party turned out to be a great success. my site mate and co-host, sarah, along with the four volunteers in the nearby city who got a glimpse of the village at its finest, enjoyed a hodgepodge of mexican/american/ukrainian foods, had a photo sessia in the fields, and were able to take some things of mine (woo!). i tried to keep sentimentality to a minimum (although sarah’s adorable drawing of us and village life almost made me cry), i mean i can only handle so many last parties, so while it really didn’t feel like too much of a ‘last party together’, it was still a perfect way to say good-bye.

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sarah’s drawing “village life” — it captures the essence of what i love and will miss about village life.

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babushka soviet soldiers // this is really how sarah and i normally dress

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giving a tour of village life

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posing with my neighbor kola and landlady alla

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my landlord sergie and sarah’s landlord kola

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swinging through the cucumber vines

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photo sessia in the fields

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sarah looks a bit sleepy, but i still love this photo